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z motors going forward then reverse randomly (no replies)

December 20, 2013, 9:58 pm
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ok
sanguinololu 1.3
stepsticks

I hooked up my board and have printed close to 90 hours without changing configuration.
I took my bot somewhere over the weekend and now has this problem.

I get my bot back and hooked up
One motor will be moving one way then change direction

I tried hitting all the pins with my solder iron thinking it might be connection
multimeter says both motors are hooked as expected
Swapped stepsticks
swapped weird motor for x axis and the motor worked as expected''
reflashed firmware

anyone have any suggestions?
thanks
bryan
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Sanguinololu 1.3a, Marlin and Sainsmart lcd (no replies)

December 26, 2013, 12:10 pm
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Hi, I am running Sanguinololu1.3a with marlin firmware. I have just installed the atmega 1284p and am running smoothly. I would now like to install the Sainsmart lcd and sd card reader for Sanguinololu but I have found no information. I can set up the basic marlin configuration.h file for my prusa mendel in the arduino environment but have been unable to get the lcd contoller working. If anyone could direct me to a thread or forum with more information on this combination I would appreciate it!
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Sanguinololu 1.3a incorrect temperature readings (no replies)

December 28, 2013, 6:59 pm
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I've assembled my Prusa i3 and have been unable to melt the abs for printing due the sanguino incorrectly reading the hotend temperature. I'm currently using cura 13.11.2 and sprinter on my sanguinololu 1.3a with 104GT-2 Semitec thermistors. The hotbed and hotend begin to heat up when I start the print, however the heating curve read by cura does not follow the actual temperature of the hotend as read by a temp gun. cura shows the temperature heat up and level out at the designated temperature and it seems to be running correctly, however the actual temperature is significantly less and i have been unable to break 115 C. here is a copy of my config.h file [pastebin.com]. I'm not sure whats going wrong or where I messed up so if anyone has any ideas, thanks for the help
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sanguinololu reset by florescence (1 reply)

December 29, 2013, 1:50 pm
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In the same room as my reprap, controlled by a sanguinololu 1.2 i believe I have a florescent ring light that seems to reset the board if i am printing and then turn the light off.
Has anyone experienced such a thing?
What can I do (besides not using the light) to stop the reset from happening?
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Sanguinololu 1.3a -stepper circuit wiring (1 reply)

December 30, 2013, 6:32 pm
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Good afternoon. I have since changed from sanguinololu to ramps, but I have a board with the following issue:

X-motor fails to move

I have performed the following to confirm the board is the issue
A-swapped motor connector
B-swapped stepper drivers
-all steppers work as requested

My question is, does anyone have a copy of the circuit diagram on the sanguinololu so I can confirm where the problem lies?
-I was thinking of making a new set of connections with jumpers wires, until the error is resolved, or i can resolder new components in place.

Thank you in advance.
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Sanguinololu MOSFET hotend problem (no replies)

January 13, 2014, 6:18 am
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Hello everyone,

I've got problem with Sanguinololu 1.3a hotend MOSFET. Hotbed works great.
- there is 12V on hotend port,
- there is no GND on hotend port,
- after switching on in pronterface, there is 5V signal on ATMEGA 1284p;
- there is GND on MOSFET;
- there is 5V signal from Atmega on MOSFET GATE.

Everything seems to be ok exept pull up signal. On hotbed MOSFET there is 10k Ohm between GND and GATE , but on hotend MOSFET there is about 7,6k Ohm between GND and GATE. I'd soldered out the resistor but it's ok - 10k Ohm.
I've changed the Mosfet for the new one, but the same symptoms.

Please give me some advice what to check/do.

Thanks in advance
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USB/Pronterface Connection issues. (1 reply)

January 17, 2014, 11:15 am
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Hello,

I am using the 1.3a version. I am having connectivity problems with my board. Sometimes with the USB and sometimes with pronterface, but I do not know if the to are related.

I built the board a few months ago, and did limited testing, and then set it up for a while. After trying to reconnect it a week ago I kept getting a flag from Windows saying the USB device was not recognized. I updated the drivers for the FTDI and it did help out alot. It doesn't happen 100 percent of the time but it does connect alot more often than it did.

Also, it seems to connect only if I plug the PC side USB in first, and THEN the Sanguinololu side. When it does connect "succesfully" Windows will sometimes show the FT232 Device connected, with a flag, but most of the time it doesn't.

Now this is where Pronterface comes in. Sometimes it will connect to the printer fine, but most of the time it will fill the terminal window with an ERROR 2 or ERROR 5 message, until the it crashes. I'll post the exact error message if that makes a difference.

So basically I'd like to fix both of these issues. 1. Make the USB reliable. and 2. Make the Pronterface connection reliable.


Thanks in advance.
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Sanguinololu extruder button? (no replies)

January 28, 2014, 5:50 pm
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I've looked around and have been reading lots of posts and haven't come across this subject yet (surprisingly).
I've had a need in the past to be able to utilize the extruder for an unknown distance. However, continually clicking on the extrude button is slow and becomes annoying and tedious. Using a button until I see filament come out is easier and more efficient. (If you extrude too much and your extrude speed is set too high, this will either cause a jam or the extruder gear cuts a groove into one spot of your filament)

Using Pronterface I can change filament colors halfway through the print, but if I extrude more than I reversed, when I resume the print it reverses again the extra amount I extruded. (let me know if you don't follow that).

That's not my problem. I've worked around, and can prevent that.

What I want to know is, Is it possible to add a button to a couple available pins on the Sanguinololu (or Melzi) to activate the extruder (or any Pololu stepper) MANUALLY? (During printing or while not printing) I have a microSD card plugged into some pins and I know that you can plug another board into some available pins to upgrade for multi color printing.
Or can I add a button to the Pololu's output directly?

I understand that the firmware will have to be modified for this. Not knowing how to write code myself, it's a lot to learn for such a small goal, but I'm willing to learn if it's possible.

If adding a button IS possible, then my second question would be: Is it possible to add a potentiometer with the button to control extruder speed?
And finally adding a switch or pcb or something to select which Pololu stepper I want? (this part isn't important)
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CIRCLES ARE OVAL? (3 replies)

January 29, 2014, 5:34 pm
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I'm having problems. I'm printing oval pulley gears instead of circle pulley gears! I'm trying to print CIRCLE Pulleys

I never had this problem until I went from a 8tooth pulley to a 18tooth pulley for BOTH X and Y on my reprap

But, this only started right after I purchased the
"---->T2.5 Aluminum Timing Pulley 18T + Timing Belt 3m for RepRap<-----".
So, Originally I had ABS Plastic pulleys with 8 teeth now I have 18 teeth......Here is where the problem prints begun!!!;-(

My setup is
Sanguinololu 1.3a
Sprinter Software for the boot
with reprap setup
using the 1.8 steppers which are nema 17 stepper motors I believe

In the Sprinter (Config.h) File Page these are my settings BELOW
//// Calibration variables
// X, Y, Z, E steps per unit - Metric Prusa Mendel with Wade extruder:
#define _AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 3200/1.25,700} I Still need to change the {X,Y where it is {80,80
// Metric Prusa Mendel with Makergear geared stepper extruder:
//#define _AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {80,80,3200/1.25,1380}
// MakerGear Hybrid Prusa Mendel:
// Z axis value is for .9 stepper is 4545.4544(if you have 1.8 steppers for Z, you need to use 2272.7272)
//#define _AXIS_STEP_PER_UNIT {104.987, 104.987, 2272.7272, 1487}

I Figured the settings I would have to change would be for the X and Y numbers which are both (80) for both X and Y to some other number setting.That is where I needed HELP for the calculation and how it would be determend to correct the oval printing problem I have. Any help would be greatly Appreciated;-)

BelowYet
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Heater not heating up above 140C (1 reply)

February 1, 2014, 10:37 pm
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Hi all,

I finished assembling the printer. When I first connected the heater and thermistor, I heated it up, it quickly went till 185 and maintained it. Now I have assembled every thing and want to start printing. But the heater is kind of struck around 138 to 148C. It is not heating beyond that. Not sure what is the reason. Is it because it is not getting enough power? How much Amps should be going to the resistor?
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Did my motherboard die on first try? :X (no replies)

February 16, 2014, 2:56 am
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Hello guys,

Quick presentation, I am 32, French and live currently in Shanghai.
Hobbies: Marine tank, remote control helicopter (TREX600 nitro), DIY stuff (arduino for aquarium) and new comer in 3D printing world.

I just finished today my Mendel with Melzi board. I did my firs component (a plastic foot for the couch, to justify the 3d printer to my wife).

When i wanted to do next component i had an issue,
My Z axis only go in one direction, the end stop sensor status is always High even if the sensor is disconnected to the board.

I exchange the end stop sensor between axis and for Z axis it is always detected as High.

Have you ever heard this issue? Is my motherboard dead on first day (such a shame)?

Thanks for your help

Miserovitch.
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Fried Sanguinololu? I shorted pins.... (no replies)

February 25, 2014, 12:29 am
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Hey all,
This will be one of my first posts. I've had my rep-rap running for over a year. Loving every second of it. I'm using it to prototype new products at work even.
I decided to do a quick breakdown, clean and rebuild to just keep it clean. I have my sanguinololu sitting below one of my z carriages, in removing the x motor, i dropped a nut onto my sanguinololu. (I had the damn thing on for my LED lights which are driven by my power supply, like an idiot.)

As if by slow motion in a terrible movie, I watched the nut fall down onto the header pins of my board. It landed and stuck between the 12V and 5V1 pins. I heard a *pop* saw a bit of smoke, my PC re-started (connected of course....FML) and my power-supply tripped. (Also blew my Wireless N USB Stick)

After having a few beers, swearing for an hour or so and writing my feelings in a journal while having a good cry, I decided to pop back on the PS.

With the PS on, the LED does NOT light, however if I plug in the USB it does. The FTDI must be working because I can "talk" to the printer sending commands, even flashing the rom, however, no motion. In my experience a bit of smoke is usually a capacitor that popped. It was coming from the C7-C8 area. My assumption is I basically removed the DC power supply from the printer in whatever blew.

I don't have a capacitor meter and did some cursory checking with my multi-meter, checking resistance, board un-powered. I checked C8 and the resistance was nearly gone, I decided to check all the 0.1uF caps... all read nearly 0 resistance. However, C7 is reading high resistance. ~40kOhm. So I figure, I'll replace C7 and see if it comes back to life. However, my electronics experience is limited and I have a few questions for the more tech savvy.

What are the chances that I blew the Drivers or Motors?

Am I right in assuming the FTDI and ATMega are ok?

Is it possible that the sanginololu thinks the reset button is "down" all the time from the USB forward? (I.E. disconnecting power?)

I figure, worse case, I'll buy another sanguin w/o drivers, pre-assembled, $70 lesson learned.

Thanks in advance everyone!

-Mike
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It's my Third Motherboard and, I just want my printer to move.... Please Help (3 replies)

March 4, 2014, 3:01 pm
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So I'm trying to get my printer to move with the Sanguinololu.
I bought it from a "good ranking" Amazon seller who claims it has been tested.

It's has an Atmega 1284P with 16Mhz ceremic oscillator.
I'm using Arduino 1.0.5
I'm plugging directly from my usb to the sanguino usb port.
I'm pretty sure i've red every webpage on Reprap.org involving Sanguinololu Most suggestions include getting arduino 0022 which is no longer available for download on the arduino website.
I've checked multiple other websites which have not helped either.

I've used both Merlin and Sprinter just to try to get the thing moving. Have not been successful.
This is my third board. I burnt out my Ramps 1.4, there's not much online help with an ultimaker 1.5.7, so i resulted to buying a sanguinololu.
I've tried a lot of things and would REALLY appreciate some guidance or a step by step walkthrough.


Anyways here are my problems.

Sprinter
First thing i did was add Gen7 to the arduino hardware.
I selected the "Gen7 with Atmega 1284P and 16Mhz"
Changed to the "Define Motherboard 62" configuation.
Hit Verify and upload... And i get the following error:
"avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout"

Next thing i tried was Adding the "Sanguino" zip folder to the arduino hardware.
I selected "Sanguino W/ 1284P and 16Mhz"
Hit Verify and upload... And i get the following error:
Inside the "SD2card.cpp" tab
"High was not declared in this scope"

"Sd2Card.cpp: In member function ‘void Sd2Card::chipSelectHigh()’:
Sd2Card.cpp:150: error: ‘HIGH’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp:150: error: ‘digitalWrite’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp: In member function ‘void Sd2Card::chipSelectLow()’:
Sd2Card.cpp:154: error: ‘LOW’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp:154: error: ‘digitalWrite’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp: In member function ‘uint8_t Sd2Card::init(uint8_t, uint8_t)’:
Sd2Card.cpp:221: error: ‘millis’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp:225: error: ‘OUTPUT’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp:225: error: ‘pinMode’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp:227: error: ‘INPUT’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp: In member function ‘uint8_t Sd2Card::waitNotBusy(uint16_t)’:
Sd2Card.cpp:476: error: ‘millis’ was not declared in this scope
Sd2Card.cpp: In member function ‘uint8_t Sd2Card::waitStartBlock()’:
Sd2Card.cpp:486: error: ‘millis’ was not declared in this scope"

Merlin
Next
With the "Gen7 1284P and 16Mhz" selected.
"#Define Motehrboard 62" Inputed
Verify and Upload
Recieve error of:
"avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout"

Next thing
With the "Sanguino 1284p W/ 16Mhz" inside the Arduino Hardware folder and selected.
I change the following configurations to #Define Motherboared 62
Verify and Upload.
receiver error of:
In file included from Marlin.h:23,
from Sd2Card.cpp:20:
pins.h:1171:3: error: #error Oops! Make sure you have 'Arduino Mega' selected from the 'Tools -> Boards' menu.
In file included from Sd2Card.cpp:20:
Marlin.h:30:22: error: Arduino.h: No such file or directory
In file included from Marlin.h:41,
from Sd2Card.cpp:20:
MarlinSerial.h:150: error: expected ‘,’ or ‘...’ before ‘&’ token
MarlinSerial.h:150: error: ISO C++ forbids declaration of ‘String’ with no type
MarlinSerial.h:169: error: expected ‘,’ or ‘...’ before ‘&’ token
MarlinSerial.h:169: error: ISO C++ forbids declaration of ‘String’ with no type
MarlinSerial.h: In member function ‘void MarlinSerial::print(int)’:
MarlinSerial.h:152: error: ‘s’ was not declared in this scope


I just want the dam thing to move properly. Can someone please help me?
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Short circuited some pins on a stepstick, now Sanguinololu is broken (i think) (1 reply)

March 4, 2014, 5:13 am
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While settting the correct Vref for the driver current on my "Ice Blue Stepsticks" I accidentally short circuited two pins on the Stepstick:
  • the GND pin on Y-axis stepper
  • the VMOT pin on the Z axis stepper
(check screenshot & [www.think3dprint3d.com])

Now the Y-motor is shaking and ratteling and makes a lot of noise (no more fluent movement like before).

I tried to determine the cause by doing these steps:
  • Y-motor on Y-stepstick = NOK (shaking & noise)
  • Y-motor on X-stepstick = OK, y-motor runs smooth, makes me think the stepstick or the motor is broken
  • then exchanged the X and Y stepsticks = Y stepstick driver is in X position on sanguinololu now
  • Y-motor on X-stepstick = OK, y-motor runs smooth, makes me think there is no problem with the stepstick but the motor is fried
  • Y-motor on Y-stepstick = NOK (shaking and noise), proves to me that motors & stepsticks are FINE!?
  • X-motor on X-stepstick = OK
  • X-motor on Y-stepstick = NOK

So this pinpoints that the problem are not the stepper motors NOR the stepper drivers?
Can I then conclude that my Sanguinololu 1.3a is fried somewhere? Can I test this in any way?

I can still connect to pronterface and send all commands and the printer reacts. Only for the Y-axis the motor starts ratteling (on all kinds of Vref voltages)

Shall I buy a new Sanguinololu or does anyone know where to find the bug here?

Ice Blue Stepsticks: [www.think3dprint3d.com]

Thanks in advance for your time and expertise!
--Kenny
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Problems with Sanguinololu board (3 replies)

March 19, 2014, 7:04 am
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Hi,

I'm having problems with my MendelMax. I think I need help from someone who knows the internal workings of the Sanguinololu (1.3a).

Heating up my MendelMax 1.5 does not work. When I try to heat the extruder, the heatbed is heated also with about 10% of the current.
If I heat the heatbed, the extruder gets heated with 10% of the heatbed current, which makes the extruder quickly overheat.

The heating cables cannot be the source, they are separate.
I tried to replace the stock firmware (unknown Marlin) with a self built from Marlin git which did not help.
I tried to issue the heating commands manually using a simple serial terminal which produced the same results.

Changes to the original kit I made:
- I cut the 5V USB line, as suggested here: [reprap.org]
(this made the voltage regulators heat far less)
- I replaced the ATX power supply with an industry type 12V 30A.
- I screwed a single heatsink to both the (heating) drivers, so the heatsinks of them are electrically connected. Could this be the source of the problem?

There are some other problems, eg. if I print, it moves the Z-Axis up instead of feeding the PLA.
But I first want to fix one problem, then deal with the next, because I believe this is a software problem.
When I manually move the axes using pronterface, the axis' are correctly assigned.

Before I adjusted the axis' heating worked well... and I once(!) was able to print a test.
But since it's screwed up. I'm not sure which changes I applied before or after.

Thanks for any help,

Jan
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Sanguinololu 1.3a and Panelolu2 acting strange (2 replies)

March 18, 2014, 12:05 am
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Hi!

After installing the sanguinololu and panelolu2 in to a casing they stopped working and started to behave strangely.(Have been working properly prior to the installation) When powering on the board the LED lit up and the display backlight is turned on (might be a bit darker than normally), but no text.
When pressing reset or control nob nothing happens. When turning the nob the display goes dark. After this I noticed that the IC1 starts warming up. The display backlight can be turned on only by turning off and on the PSU.

The firmware can be downloaded from Arduino, and Pronterface can connect to the board, but it reacts to no commands or movements, nor will it show the tip or bed temperatures. The same thing with the Panelolu2 connected and disconnected.

Could someone who is more familiar to the electronics please advice how to troubleshoot this? The possibility of a short circuit can not be ruled out, but I have no evidence of one either.

Thanks in advance
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:(Motors not working - reprap Huxley Sanguinololu (no replies)

March 18, 2014, 3:29 am
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Hi everyone,

I'm asking for help. I can't drive any stepper motors on my reprap :(

I built my reprap Huxley from reprappro two years ago, and it was working well. Since THE day.
I don't now why, maybe the heabed regulation was defective... I think that a surintensity destroyed my atmega, then it was impossible de communicate with it.
So I bought a new sanguinololu 1.3a assembled and tested to provide any problem. But without stepper drivers (I thougt there was only a problem with atmega or ftdi).

My config is:
-Reprap Huxley
-Sanguinololu 1.3a
-Marlin 1.0.1
-Pronterface/Skinforge

When I recieved sanguinololu I loaded marlin firmware, I only check these 3 lines before:
#define REPRAPPRO_HUXLEY
#define REPRAPPRO_SANGUINOLOLU
#define SERIAL_R 4700

Now when I launch pronterface, it's blocked on "connecting..." (com port and baudrate are ok), and I don't hear the motors initialisation like before...
If I click on "reset printer", all functionnalities are functionnals(...) (heatbed, extruder heat, captors...), exept motors.

I don't know what to do then...




I tried the montage below, to check each stepper motors an driver with an arduino mega (almost totally copied from Jose Perez de Lama).

With the code found here..
But none motors or drivers works, (maybe I missed something?).

Is it possible that I broke down all the 4 stepper motors in one time ? I think the lm7805 is overheated too (I can't touch it, without connecting USB, only 19V supply).

What can I do, I'm quite desperate now (I broke my arduino mega yesterday too, due to badluck...) ?

Fuji
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Sanguinololu has 2.5v on the 12v side (2 replies)

March 24, 2014, 4:55 pm
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So, a bit of backstory. I got this Sanguinololu put together, along with a 12v power supply that has an LED next to the rail letting you know when it's live. The PS doesn't have a switch on it at the moment, so I leave it unplugged from the wall when I don't need it. So it was connected to the screw terminals on the motherboard, but without wall power. I plugged the USB cable in and got a good connection to the computer. I noticed that the LED on the PS's rail lit up, which I thought was weird, but I didn't think hard enough about it. When I plugged the PS into the wall to give the motherboard 12V my laptop instantly shut down.

Turns out that's because the 12v side of the Sanguinololu is crossed over to the USB's power side. So with just the USB plugged in the voltage regulator is providing the expected 5v on one side, but also putting out 2.5v on the 12v side. When just the PS is connected, the 12v side has 12v, and the 5v side has 5v, but the USB also has 3.5v.

That's not supposed to happen, right?

I can't have both the USB and the PS plugged in, because it puts power back through the USB cable into the laptop.

I double checked the installation and orientation of the voltage regulator and associated capacitors.
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Help us: "Machine state: Closed" (no replies)

April 11, 2014, 10:57 am
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Hello,
So heres the problem:
Our 3D- Printer (Prusa i3 with 1.3a Sanguinololu, Atmega 1284P) was just working fine. But suddenly we couldnt connect to Printer anymore. Cura just said: "Machine State: Closed". It isnt a problem of Cura, because we couldnt connect with Pronterface either. We are able to connect with Arduino, but when trying to upload the software, Arduino starts to do so, but after that nothing happens.
We think that its probably some probleme with the Sanguinololu board but we have no idea what it could be.
Before buying a new one I wanted to ask, if anyone has an idea what could cause the problem. If you need more information just say it.

I hope somebody is able to help us. :)
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Having problems with temperature readings (5 replies)

April 25, 2014, 9:22 am
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Hopefully someone can help me out here...

I have a Sanguinololu 1.3a board with 4.7k pullup resistors installed.
I have a J-Head hotend MK V-BV (the real deal, not a knockoff)

The hotend has a 104GT-2 thermistor installed.

The problem that I have is that it reads values, just not correctly.

For instance...
repetier host is set to: 255C
The Thermistor reads: 235C in Repetier
My meter says the temperature is 172C

I think my meter thermocouple is the most accurate considering it seems to follow the melt point of the plastic.

Any ideas why this could be so far off?

Thanks,
Jason
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